Showing posts with label "Coast to Coast Trek". Show all posts
Showing posts with label "Coast to Coast Trek". Show all posts


Day 8                   Kirkby Stephen to Keld



11.3 miles                    Torrential rain



We slept well at Fletcher House and after a good breakfast we donned our wet weather gear (again!) and walked out into the rain.


Fletcher House

Leaving Kirby Stephen

Frank's Bridge, Kirby Stephen

We crossed Frank's Bridge in Kirby Stephen and passed through the pretty hamlet of Hartley.  Such picturesque places but rain so heavy I was unsure whether to risk using even my phone's camera. Drat!

Today's walk takes us over the Pennine watershed of Nine Standards Rigg and into the Yorkshire Dales.  Because of erosion and taking into account conditions, both weather and underfoot, the route over the Nine Standards has been divided into three seasonal options.  The Red Route, being Wainwright's original walk by the Nine Standards to be used between May and July; the Blue Route via Whitsundale between August and September and the Green Route along the Nateby to Keld road between December and April, or any other time when the weather is bad.   Talk of intentions at breakfast in Fletcher House was divided, with the Aussies and ourselves going for the Red Route and the Americans being more cautious because of the weather forecast and opting for the Green.

After Hartley there is a very long lead into the climb proper, first on a farm track past a large quarry and then on rougher, stony ground.

As we gained height we had glimpses of the Nine Standards, which are large cairns that can be seen from many miles away and look a bit like giant skittles.  Cloud moved in and obscured them and the wind would blow it away again.  The conditions were pretty awful, very wet and wild, and we decided that if visibility was very poor when we reached the Nine Standards we would backtrack and join the Green Route.


The Red Brisbanes


I climb cheerfully towards the Nine Standards


Some distance behind us walked an Australian couple from Brisbane in red waterproofs and behind them, the Aussies. Eventually we were pleased to reach the Nine Standards, which close up were weird impressive structures, solid in the mists.  We stopped for a while and were joined by the Aussies, the Red Brisbanes and the American couple we had chatted to at Haweswater on Day 5.  Suddenly Carole decided she had seen enough of the Nine Standards and set off on the Red Route, soon followed by myself and the rest of the gang who seemed happy to join someone who apparently knew where she was going.   Hmm!  Oh well, she did seem confident, perhaps because she was using the straightforward 'A Coast to Coast Route Guide' by Tony Grogan, which has excellent maps.



We reach the Nine Standards

Everyone attempts to take photographs in the rain


The areas of quagmire became larger and more frequent and we were pleased to reach the new crowd funded paving at the head of Backstone Beck.  This took us across boggy areas that would have been almost impassible in today's conditions.  Unfortunately the paving came to an end and it was often necessary to divert around black bog, testing the ground ahead of us and very often sinking nearly to the knee.

After half an hour of this we all had wet feet.  One of the Red Brisbanes went full length into the bog, rolled on his back and lay there laughing like a drain.  What else could he do?!  Carole stumbled and her arm sank to the shoulder into the bog.  She said she was surprised that it felt lovely, so soft, spongy and warm compared to her chilly fingers.

Once we had passed the worst of the boggy ground we continued on alone.  One of the nice things about the Coast to Coast Walk is that one meets and walks with people for a while but everyone walks at their own pace and it is not considered unfriendly or rude to just stop for a coffee, or walk off more quickly if that's what one feels like doing.

Up until this point we had the wind and rain in our faces and it was helpful when our path rejoined the Green Route at Little Gill and we had the wind on our backs at last.

We carried on through the rain, listening to the haunting cries of curlews and heading for Ravenseat, home of the Yorkshire Shepherdess.  Carole had recently read her book about her life on the farm and was keen to see it and even more keen to try a cream tea there.

After some tricky stream crossing (wet feet again) we had Ravenseat within our sights and were appalled to see a 'Cafe Closed' sign propped up against the gate.  As the rain lashed down I wailed about the injustices being heaped upon me but in the end we decided to go into the farm to see if we could find a barn to shelter in to drink our own coffee.  Miraculously we came to such a barn and there we saw a group of hikers packing up to leave and on the table in front of them were mugs and plates.   They said they had asked at the farm and so Carole and I decided to try our luck and went to knock at the farmhouse where the surprisingly attractive shepherdess, Amanda Owen, answered the door; piles of her books were handily available for purchase placed on a shelf to the side.  I asked if there was any chance of a coffee and she smiled and said of course there was, and would we like cream scones too?  

Ravenseat Farm

Shelter from the storm

The farm dog looks for tidbits

Scones and coffee from the Yorkshire Shepherdess

We returned to the now empty barn and the cream scones were brought to us by her eldest daughter and were delicious.

Leaving was difficult but we had become chilled and it was best to get moving again.  As we walked away from the farm we saw a sudden movement in the grass, lightning fast and after several minutes chasing around on the sodden hillside we found a shrew curled up in a nest attempting to hide. It was fascinating to see this tiny animal so closely.

The views from this point on are fantastic, with the swollen Whitsundale Beck racing along below us and pouring over a waterfall to crash down into the ravine below.  Soon we reached the River Swale and followed it to join the road near Keld.  As we approached the village we passed the Wainwath Force waterfall, which was thundering with a cascade of mud and water, quite alarming to behold.


Whitsundale Beck below

Sodden

Wainwath Force

We were dreadful sights when we arrived at Butt House, sodden and filthy from our bog encounters, but our welcome was one of the nicest we've had.  We stepped into a warm drying room where our host organised us as we took off our wet gear and hung it up. There was even a special device to dry boots.  No two hikers could have been happier as we went up to our warm room carrying pints of Black Sheep ale, extra biscuits and a menu to choose our evening meal.

Dinner was good at Butt House and eight of us sat around a large oval table; the Aussies, the American couple and ourselves being C2C walkers and a lone American and English guy, both of whom were doing the Pennine Way.  Dinner was a salad starter, then lamb and lentil tagine with apricot and lime couscous followed by bread and butter pudding.  Plenty of beer and lively and interesting conversation made a perfect end to a long day.





Day 9                      Keld to Reeth



12 miles  (via Muker)                     Cool and dry




Keld is the half way point of the Coast to Coast Walk, and Wainwright offers two routes from here to Reeth: the Royal Road which follows a gentle low level riverside way, adding about a mile if a diversion to Muker is included, or his preferred route over the moors, which passes by relics of the old lead mining industry.  We decided to take the former because we were not particularly interested in the disused lead mines and also because our legs were feeling tired after yesterday's very energetic Pennine crossing.

After breakfast we waved cheerio to the Aussies and wouldn't see them again as they were heading for a rest day at Richmond and would drop out of our walk.

We began by walking down to the river to see a couple of Keld's seven waterfalls.  They were still is spate with muddy water gushing downstream and we found the path high up alongside the river was slippery with mud making the enterprise a little dangerous this morning.


One of our favourite stops, Butt House, Keld

Keld's waterfalls were in full spate today



We resumed the walk proper and found it to be quite pleasant, following the river nearly all the way to Reeth, however on the debit side Carole was feeling bloody minded, her feet were tired from yesterday and although the walk was relatively easy she was full of hell (her description, not mine!).

We stopped off at Muker after only about 3 miles and although the village is not actually on the Coast to Coast and involves a half mile diversion each way after crossing the Swale, this diversion was worth doing as we walked through the most beautiful wild flower meadows we have ever seen.  Perhaps the recent heavy rain had brought them to their best?   


The River Swale would be our companion all day



Crossing the river to divert to Muker

Walking through the prettiest meadows we have ever seen


Muker appears in the distance


We walked round the village and found ourselves in a tea room where we enjoyed another cream scone and coffee, before heading off along the river to reach Gunnerside in another couple of miles where we shamefully stopped again and went to another tea room, this time sharing a tea cake and a slice of tea loaf together with a huge pot of tea.


Muker

Ambitious sheep in Muker

Back in the meadows towards Gunnerside

Ivelet Bridge


We wandered on along the river, watching sand martins swooping in and out of their nests inside holes in the river bank.  Along this stretch we also saw thrushes, dippers, rabbits and the usual picture-postcard lambs.  One interesting section involved walking along the top of a narrow paved flood defence wall, with the river down to one side and the fields about 10 feet below us on the other. As there was a strong wind blowing to the side it was a strange feeling and required concentration.


Carole holds the gate open for me


Gunnerside, where's the tea room?

Back along the Swale

On the flood defence wall, a ten foot drop on either side

It was Sunday and there were lots of weekend walkers about but other than meeting the American Couple at Muker Tea Rooms we saw none of our C2C companions, perhaps they were taking the lead mine route?

Reeth


Arriving at the Buck at Reeth we enjoyed a couple of pints of Timothy Taylor Boltmaker before booking a window table for dinner and being shown to our room.









Day 10        Reeth to Catterick Bridge



14 miles          Fair and improving




This was a lovely walk with more variety than yesterday's.  Our tired legs had improved and Carole said hers no longer felt as if they could bend through 360 degrees in any direction!


Leaving Reeth

Must be tough here on a Friday night!

Walking towards Marrick Priory

It was damp when we started walking at 9.30am, but was to steadily improve as the day went on.  We walked out of Reeth on a pretty riverside path then returned to the road.  We passed Marrick Priory, now an outdoor centre and paused at their tables to remove our waterproof leggings.

Straight after leaving the old priory we climbed sharply through woods on an ancient flagged path known as 'the Nunnery Steps', and this was easier than climbing on wet mud.


Pet lambs

Marrick Priory, let's get these waterproofs off!

The Nunnery Steps

Strong smell of aniseed from Sweet Cicely

We entered fields for the next couple of miles, crossing numerous stiles before descending to a road and following it steeply down to Marske.  We had been walking for about 6 miles by this time and I was pleased to see a sign at the Church of St Edmunds in Marske, advertising refreshments.

We walked up to the church and looked round before purchasing a couple of Snickers Bars and sitting on a bench to enjoy a coffee from our flasks.


A sign put up by a friendly farmer

Field paths

New sign!

The friendly Church of St Edmunds

Coast to Coast bounty

We walked out of Marske following the road and soon after turned off at a C2C sign to climb steeply to a white cairn with Applegarth Scar, which we had been eyeing for quite a while, towering behind.


Applegarth Scar

Me at the cairn


We followed the path through Whitecliffe Wood where we paused to scan the trees after hearing a tapping sound, not drilling like a woodpecker.  Eventually I saw the bird responsible tapping at a branch, it was small with a black cap and an amber chest and we now know it to be a nuthatch.


Tired out

I send Carole on to negotiate our passage...

Approaching Whitecliff Wood

An easy road led us down into Richmond where a kind gentleman took us on the scenic route through fine Georgian houses into the town centre.  Here we found a nice tea room and settled down to tea and scones, our fuel of choice.





Richmond below


Walking through Richmond

Refreshed, we crossed Richmond Bridge and went round the rear of the old railway station, now a centre with cafe and cinema, to pick up a cycle track.  We left this and passed the sewage works, no smell at all, through woods, then fields and now very happy walkers in the sunshine.  


Past the sewage works, follow the C2C

Waterfall into the Swale

We arrive at St Giles Farm!

We spotted our accommodation for the night at St Giles Farm and were charmed by a piece of slate with a message welcoming The Fosters and a glossy black labrador bringing an old shoe as a present.  We were settled on a comfy sofa with tea and cakes and told the plans for dinner, which sounded lovely - and was!