Day 2   Ennerdale Bridge to Rosthwaite

14.5 miles                   Cloudy but fine

We sat down to breakfast at 8.00 am in the Fox and Hounds. Bacon, egg and mushrooms were good and we were out and walking by 9.00 am.

We began with a short walk to Ennerdale Water where we decided to take the path on the south side of the lake.  This involves what our guidebook describes as a steep, rocky scramble but which we thought very tame, perhaps it might be trickier in wet weather.

Our accommodation in Ennerdale Bridge

A short walk from Ennerdale Bridge...

.... brings us to Ennerdale Water

A quick scramble uphill...

... and down the other side

Ennerdale Water

Ennerdale Water was very peaceful and we saw no wildlife until we encountered a flotilla of geese with several young close to the lake head.

Walking alongside Ennerdale Water

My eye was caught by some pink T-shirts ahead and we soon caught the Brain Tumour Fundraisers, who explained it was not their intention to do the whole of the C2C.  We wondered why as they were obviously good walkers.

We also met Agnes, a Canadian girl walking alone and an American couple who we would meet off and on until Keld, when their rest day would permanently drop them out of our C2C.

Sheep and unusual 'spectacle' lamb, Sunday walkers, not C2C behind

After the lake there is an easy walk, ascending very gradually at first through fields and then on a forest path until Black Sail Hut is reached.  This is described in our book as 'romantic' and it certainly is in a lovely setting.

Black Sail Pass with the Birthday Boys on left 

Leaving Black Sail, the Fundraisers now arrived and in the foreground

We arrived at the hut to find lots of walkers had congregated there including the Birthday Boys and the Aussies.  Not knowing for certain whether we would find refreshments here we had brought our own flasks of hot water to make coffee, ate apples and trail bars and enjoyed a pleasant break chatting to The Aussies.

Most of the cloud cleared from the sky as we sallied forth from Black Sail Hut for the climb up the side of Loft Beck.  As we climbed we met The Geordies, a Newcastle couple who were doing the C2C for the second time.  They were on a similar schedule to us and we would see them throughout the trek.  

This was quite a tough, steep climb but satisfying to complete.  At the top a series of cairns disappear into the distance and there are views back to Ennerdale Water.

Walking towards Loft Beck

Climbing Loft Beck, approaching The Geordies

Looking down Loft Beck

The Buttermere Valley comes into view

That was the day's climbing done and as we continued we had a beautiful view of the Buttermere Valley.  We were also pleased to spot the drumlins that Wainwright mentions, as we walked to join the Honister Pass road which is reached by a rapid descent down a stony path.

Buttermere and Crummock Water

As we approached this descent we met Big Pack Man who we had last seen struggling on Dent Hill.  He told about the cull he had carried out on his kit and said that he was looking forward to staying in luxury at Seatoller that evening, instead of being under canvas.

We soon reached Honister Hause, which is a revived slate mine with a visitor centre and cafe, and was very busy with a packed car park, as it was a Sunday afternoon.

Honister Hause
Coffee and cake at Honister

We bought coffee and cake (no scones left) from the weary looking staff and went to sit in the sun to enjoy it.  Afterwards we looked round the visitor centre and were tempted by the slate C2C beer mats but at £5 each and the (almost certain) possibility of me dropping them we decided to leave them for another time.

Not sure the chain is really necessary...

Boot Camp

After this we continued with our walk to Rosthwaite via a lovely route beside Stonethwaite Beck, calling at the Scafell pub for a couple of pints in the sun before checking in to the Royal Oak situated just next door.  Here we had good accommodation and the best food of the trek so far.

Crossing fields to Rosthwaite

We are welcomed to Rosthwaite

I enjoy a reward at the Scafell Pub